Waiting for autumn

Waiting for autumn

Temperatures remain high; there is still no rain. The past two weeks have seen some of the best walking conditions of the entire year with beautiful sunshine, little wind and mild air. Sunsets have been beautiful, and the trees are beginning to don their October plumage. Migratory birds are on the move a bit; the swallows and martins have gone south along with warblers and young buzzards are soaring over new territories. And yet none of it feels quite right. It still has hardly rained since a thunderstorm back in June, although there was one damp day early in September.

My last dunking was on the Black Mountain in Wales. Having climbed up the wonderful mid-sized (for Britain) peak Picws Du in the western part of the Brecon Beacons we caught a magnificent squall sweeping in from the north. It was intensely refreshing given the context of this endless summer. The following week I was in Cannes on the French Riviera to blow saxophone as part of a band for a wonderfully vibrant wedding on the sands. What struck me that the 36C temperatures no longer felt ‘special’ any more. It’s just more of the same. Meanwhile, back in London the Met Office predicts rain most weeks – but it never materialises. So odd.

Latest walks

My recent KWNL walks have included a superb foray to Chiddingstone, where there’s now a lot of construction at Wat Stock Farm between points 4 and 5. Old barns are being demolished to make way for – something. Anyway, the walk isn’t disturbed. Later, there’s a new very welcome wooden bridge over a ditch between points 8 and 9. It’s been a while since I’d done the Otford to Shoreham walk via Romney Street (view from near point 7, top), so that was a cracker under azure skies last week. Livestock in the fields is a bit of a worry at this time of year especially if you have a dog, but the cows and bulls nearing point 6 were in docile mood I’m pleased to report – and were well away from the path.

I’ve also walked at Hutchinson’s Bank and Selsdon woods near Addington and Farleigh. But lovely though it was, the route turned out to be entirely in (drum roll) Surrey so I shan’t be writing it up. It’s kind of similar to the High Elms and Cudham/Downe routes in any case. Worth it though, and good for butterflies and birds and only 25 minutes by car. There is a bus option but no train. The weekend was wrapped up with a shortish stroll at Petts Wood, perfect for the overcast day with its fabulous trees and paths drawing the attention from the dull sky.

These parched lands

These parched lands

As I write there is a hint of rain in the forecast. The Met Office has the ‘odds’ at 30%, yet the sun is once again blazing on this delightful Monday morning. I say delightful but of course many of us feel a bit torn about the whole thing. I love being able to nip down to Camber Sands or Hastings whenever I can, in the knowledge the weather will be great, but unlike the smarmy opinion writers in the Telegraph or Times, you can’t help but be extremely worried about the unpredictability of British weather in the age of global warming. Flooding is quite likely to follow drought and the effects of it all won’t just be felt on food prices and farmers’ livelihoods (as if that wasn’t enough) but on our houses, gardens, trees, wildlife. You know all this.

  • from the North Downs escarpment near Brasted
  • Farmhouse near Knockholt
  • Cudham countryside big sky

As for Kent walks, I like the usual late August ‘tiredness’ in the countryside, the quiet, the drowsy beer-thirsty wasps and the sense of being on the cusp of change (swallows gathering their forces to head to Africa etc). But this year the aridity, the colours, the mood has hugely exaggerated that normal late August vibe. On yesterday’s cycle from Downe to Knockholt and back via Green St Green and Cudham the sombre browns, dustiness and silence were at times wonderful, at others dispiriting. I supposed it depended whether I was going downhill or not.

I’ve taken to my bike with friends and family for North Downs rides of late, creating our own breeze is rather refreshing, and put actual walking a bit on the backburner (I quite often walk alone but lately I’ve preferred company – which isn’t always available). A ride from Sevenoaks to Penshurst via Tonbridge was particularly pleasurable. But yesterday, on the escarpment, the humidity felt suffocating in the unusually cloudy conditions. After a pint of Harvey’s at that excellent boozer the Three Horseshoes in Knockholt the remainder of the ride back to Downe passed in a blur of sweat and haziness. Should have drunk more water, deffo.

Nightjars in the Ashdown Forest

A memorable outing this weekend was to the Eastbourne air display. When the tide is in the stony beaches they are excellent for a swim, with the added frisson of aerobatics by Spitfires and so on. There are some good cafes amid the glorious Victorian white stucco in the side streets too. For a free event that attracts thousands, it really does work well because there is lots of space in the town and plenty of beachfront. And just a short walk to the west is spectacular Beachy Head and beyond that, the Seven Sisters, which in the late afternoon light are utterly magical. After a delightful pint at the Tiger Inn in East Dean, just up from Birling Gap, we set off for home via the Ashdown Forest.

At Gill’s Lap (Galleon’s Lap in Winnie the Poo), one of the highest points of the heath, we parked up and took a stroll among the heather and pine clumps, visiting the Heffalump trap, Kanga’s sandy pit and the Enchanted Wood (yes, they are real places – and just to the east is Eeyore’s Gloomy Place I kid you not). In the twilight the surrounding landscape and huge views turned pink and purple; it really did feel enchanted. As we headed back to the car we were suddenly surrounded by elegant, long-winged birds of a kind I had never seen before. I knew right away they were nightjars. There were four or five of these nocturnal creatures, gliding and side-slipping so beautifully in the dusk but totally invisible after they landed in the heather. My son managed to get video footage (see below).

New route: Heaverham/Kemsing circular

New route: Heaverham/Kemsing circular

This route, no 28, is similar to walk 27, but is better for people walking on Sundays, when there is no train service. You can start it from the lovely Chequers Inn, Heaverham (if you buy a drink/meal); Kemsing village car park; or Mon-Sat from Kemsing station. Rather like the Chevening/Knockholt walk it’s another chalk escarpment route that drops down into the Vale of Holmesdale, and uses short stretches of the North Downs Way. The link below includes the usual Google map and the more useful OS map, plus written directions. PDF to download will follow in a few days!

Click here for full description and maps

Cudham route firmed up – literally

Cudham route firmed up – literally

The Cudham chalk paths route is a superb saunter through meadows, valleys and woods; its lack of grandiose views doesn’t detract at all. There’ll be plenty of bluebell vistas though from this weekend onwards, but the other day wood anemone and celandine were still the stars, waiting to be eclipsed by the vast swathes of dark green shoots just waiting to burst into glorious dark blue flower. Gamboling lambs, buzzards and the growl of the occasional Spitfire overhead, heading back to Biggin Hill, provided additional entertainment. On entering the wonderful New Year’s Wood, on the second half of the stroll, I was delighted to see the normally muddy path (actually a bridlepath) had been surfaced with mulch and stone – I don’t know the name of that kind of surface – adding to the pleasure of this lovely walk. Great!