Wintry walking is upon us

Wintry walking is upon us

I kicked off my season of winter walking with a wonderful jaunt down at Laugharne in west Wales with a university friend. It was easy to see how Dylan Thomas found so much inspiration there, especially given that his writing shed has a view of the Taf estuary every bit as stunning as the town’s imposing Norman castle. It’s not exactly a day trip from SE London – although I once climbed Pen-y-Fan near Brecon on a day trip whim – but I’m sure there’s plenty of places to stay overnight. Apparently it’s best to avoid the place in high summer, though us SE Londoners are used to rubbing shoulders with the ‘tourist hordes’, so it’d be no big deal.



Best winter routes

So, now winter is upon us. Some bemoan the dank days but they are probably doing too much shopping. Yes, Bromley or Croydon can be a bit dreary of December weekend. But not so the countryside. On cloudy, misty days the woods take on a mysterious atmosphere, while on clear days the sunsets and cloudscapes are remarkable. Birds are more active – look out for redwings, fieldfares and other thrushes – with goldcrests often turning up lower down in the tree canopy as their need for food becomes greater.

  • Lullingstone, 17 December, 2022
  • Downe walk in winter
  • Lullingstone, December 27
  • path, mid-winter

On a clear, cold afternoon the Fackenden Down walk can be a cracker. Its exposure to the east lends for frost and a brushing of snow while the view of the setting sun is fantastic, often accompanied by mist in the Darent valley just adding to the drama. The Shoreham circular mk2, taking in the high up views from Warren Farm (actually also on Fackenden Down) has some of the best views. Any variation of the Lullingstone walk (from Eysford or from the Lullingstone visitor centre or golf club car park) is terrific in winter. A particular winter favourite of mine is a little bit further out on the Hoo peninsular at Cliffe. The marshes, wildfowl, huge skies and the widening Thames here lend a Norfolk atmosphere to proceedings that’s almost otherworldly on a cold crisp day. I haven’t listed the walk as I have the others but you can find details of it here.

All the walks listed at KWNL are great in winter – the Greensand Ridge views from Ide Hill, Hosey, One Tree Hill; the skeletal woods of Petts Wood, Oldbury and Hever … all take on a special atmosphere. And Knole too, the huge medieval house looks terrific as the sun goes down in winter – perhaps it’s my favourite Christmas walk.

Photography of winter walks can be misleading – we tend to go heavy on the snow, frost and colourful dusks because they are the most photogenic. But of course, such spectacular conditions can be rare and most of the time actually the colours don’t go beyond brown and grey, with hopefully a bit of blue above. However, please indulge me showing off my winter wonderland photos above at this point – such conditions don’t come around so often and we have to make the best of them. And it’s worth noting that even if dank and dull in south-east London it can be sparkling on the higher downs where snow may have fallen.

I’ll bid you farewell for now until the New Year – enjoy the walks and come along to the big band gig on 5 January at the Sundridge Park club, 134 Burnt Ash Lane, Bromley, 8.30-10.30, £12 (cash only).

Happy Christmas.

A sparrowhawk sits for me

A sparrowhawk sits for me

Working from home has its benefits. A glance out of the kitchen window one grey Thursday recently brought rich dividends. There in the cherry plum tree was a bird. Usually it would be a pigeon, a robin, a great tit or goldfinch. This was larger and was clearly eating something it had pinned to a branch. It was a sight I’ve never seen before – almost a bucketlist scenario in fact, a sparrowhawk in my garden. I’ve had the odd sparrowhawk encounter in my pocket of south-east London before – soaring over Cator park, racing down Perry Vale, zipping low through Mayow Park and most vividly nearly taking my ear off while chasing sparrows in Bell Green. Yes, Bell Green, that hitherto unnoticed wildlife haven. I’ve seen one try to eat a pigeon at Beckenham Cricket Club while out running. It was chased away by crows and the pigeon flew off unimpressed by its brief ordeal.

  • Male sparrowhawk

But this was new to me. A sparrowhawk having lunch (a poor little long-tailed tit I believe) for about 10 minutes, unhindered, just a few feet from me. I had to take photos through the kitchen window so as not to disturb him (it was def a male) so the quality isn’t great but beggars can’t be choosers. I’m still rather excited by the whole thing truth be told.

Autumnal tones on the Kent walks

Autumnal tones on the Kent walks

Autumn in these parts is spectacular. I know people talk in hushed tones about the colours of New England, Canada and Italy’s Apennines in the fall, but really the effect is pretty similar wherever there are trees! Once again, don’t overlook what’s on one’s doorstep in favour of an expensive and laborious trip. The November views of the Weald from Wilmot’s or Mariner’s Hill, or across the Darent Valley and the beech woods of Lullingstone are undeniably amazing. The ever-changing wide skies of Kent are a big factor in teasing out colours and optimising certain tones with the lower sun offering saturated reds, yellows and pinks. And greys, let’s not gloss over.

What’s surprising to me looking at the photos below is how green the countryside is in the Penshurst photo compared with those from elsewhere, yet it was taken on 1 November one week before this weekend’s Hosey walk, and a week after the trip to Shoreham represented here. Strange… could be sunshine and time of day I suppose.

I have lots of great autumn photos from over the past nine years of operating this website. But a selection from the past two weeks (mostly – the Downe and Ide Hill photos are from previous years) is enough to make the point – autumn is a terrific time for a hike on any of the routes at KWNL.

  • Mariners Hill view across the Weald
  • Sunbeams and silhouettes
  • trees and river
  • Wilmot's Hill
  • Start of Ide Hill walk in fog, autumn
  • Classic autumnal Kent view from Emmett's Garden
  • Ide Hill field, dusk, autumn

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The autumn rush and a Tudor epic

The autumn rush and a Tudor epic

Despite recent heavyish bursts of rain the walks here are still relatively mud-free. With friends I wielded together two Kent Weald walks on Saturday, the Chiddingstone and Hever circulars, making a pleasing figure-of-8 route of about 11 miles throughout the heart of Tudor Boleyn country. We stopped at two pubs, the Leicester Arms in Penshurst, a really lovely place I hadn’t been to for ages, and the good ol’ Castle Inn in Chiddingstone. The original plan was to include the excellent Henry VIII too, at Hever, but we needed to make up time for a rendezvous in Penshurst. But we did manage to pop in to St Peters church for a look at the wonderful medieval effigy of Margaret Cheyne. Larkins beer was served at both pubs and we tucked into a superb chilli con carne at the Castle Inn. Autumn colours were exceptional and the paths still very solid, with a few decent puddles dotted around. Rain slashed down towards the end of the walk but there were still plenty of leaves still attached to branches to help keep us dry. There were a few buzzards and red kites around but we didn’t see any redwings which we had hoped had arrived from the near continent by now. And yes, I still can’t believe Penshurst Place hasn’t set up a footpath along its southern edge to meet the Eden Valley Path and so avoid hikers having to walk up/down that terrible road.

Hever church (St Peters)

Things will get muddier fairly quickly once we get to the end of the month so it will be wellies before long, or stout waterproof hiking shoes.

Here is the GPX map of the Hever/Chiddingstone/Penshurst figure of 8 – I’ll give it its own page soon.

GPX maps

I’ve updated all the URLs of the OS GPX maps listed for the walks for easier access (somehow the OS had sort of rerouted them or altered the hyperlinks). They should all work much better now.

A very summery type of autumn

A very summery type of autumn

High pressure is dominating the weather and the near-drought continues. There is no mud on any of the walks, which once would have been unheard of for mid-October. For the past week it’s felt as if summer’s lease has no intention of expiring anytime soon. Amid mild temperatures and cerulean skies we enjoy the spectacles of the season as the greens of September become more mottled and varied as they meld into the yellows, oranges and reds of November. Rosehips, elderberry and sloes decorate the hedgerows and fungi mystically appear in woodland and grassy fringes. I’m not one for foraging; I much prefer to look and leave well alone (apart from blackberries).

Birdlife still seems somnambulant: I’ve been hoping for migrations but in this still weather nothing much seems to stir. A week ago, in the wake of Storm Amy, hundreds of house martins passed overhead heading east with the wind, as a full moon rose in a purple sky. But this was in Lower Sydenham not on the Kent walks. My only notable sightings have been a kingfisher on River Eden on the Chiddingstone walk; red kites over Lullingstone and Downe; grey plover and lapwings on the ever-expanding shoreline at Bough Beech reservoir (I’ve never seen the water so low); and buzzards at Polhill.

My walk at Fackenden Down today (pictured) was serene, colourful and wonderfully warm. But this isn’t autumn, surely. Lovely though it was, I would quite like to feel a fresher breeze, walk with the threat of a squall, squish through a puddle and ponder whether to wear wellies or trainers. That time will come I guess, I’ll enjoy summer’s lease while it lasts.

September walks

September walks

September and October are two of my favourite months for a stroll. Somehow the light seems sharper, the cloudscapes change more quickly, birds and other creatures are on the move and colourful, mysterious fungi appears. There may be mud to contend with of course so a comfortable pair of wellies may come into their own before too long. I wouldn’t rule out a return of summer yet though, just because it’s raining ferociously as I write. All of the walks sparkle at this time of year but I particularly enjoy the woody One Tree Hill routes, Oldbury and Petts Wood in September. Just an atmosphere thing really.

Talking of cloudscapes, my walk at Downe on Saturday was set to a backdrop of dramatic shower clouds. I was happy to see the worst of them pass to the north, only to discover with some alarm that it had grown a nasty looking limb that was heading my way. My alarm doubled on seeing three forks of lightning flicker to earth. Amid hailstones the size of… er… dried lentils, my swift walk turned into an undignified dash across the final field back to the car in fear of a big flash.

Quiet North Downs, busy South Downs; all good

Quiet North Downs, busy South Downs; all good

A walk around Birling Gap in East Sussex amid the famous Seven Sisters chalk cliffs was just the tonic for a dreamy August last afternoon. It’s a brilliant trip that we do fairly regularly. We started on the beach at Eastbourne with a picnic while enjoying the August airshow, before hitting Beachy Head and the Gap. After a pint at the superb Tiger Inn in ancient East Dean, we topped off the adventure with a 45-minute sunset stroll along the lower Cuckmere river from the Seven Sisters visitor centre to the sea. It was blissful but busy with tourists and folk down from London … which is just fine with me; it’s great to see everyone out enjoying the beautiful countryside, and the joy people were feeling in the sea air was kind of infectious. It felt a bit like going to the cinema – the pleasure of a shared experience of wonderful scenes is a great thing. Sussex by the Sea is a special place.

  • North Downs view
  • An egret at dusk in the Cuckmere river

The following day it was back to the North Downs for the Knockholt / Chevening route; the first time this year I reckon. As mentioned in my previous post I was tipped off by a helpful KWNL’er that there was a useful diversion at the Point 5 which means you don’t have to walk on Sundridge Road anymore. And so there was. It was great. Very sleepy, dry, Augusty, quiet. And so few people! I missed the crowds at Birling Gap. Well, I didn’t reeeeeally; I love solitude too. Without the waves, gleaming chalk, and sea breeze, the western North Downs don’t have quite the easy allure of their southern counterparts; but for quiet, great views, glimpses of the medieval past and atmosphere they are wonderful. But so few south-east Londoners seem to quite know what’s on the doorstep – which is the point of this website I suppose.

New detour on Chevening / Knockholt walk

New detour on Chevening / Knockholt walk

I’ve not tried it myself but delighted to relay the news that there is a useful detour on this North Downs stroll that means you don’t have to walk along Sundridge Road (although it is only a couple of hundred feet or so). So now you can follow a path behind Turvin Farm after Point 5 and rejoin the path back up the escarpment. Thanks to Eddie M for the tip off – I look forward to trying it out. I’m overdue a walk on that route.

Secret valleys on these NW Kent walks

Secret valleys on these NW Kent walks

Kent Walks Near London can offer several lovely, lonely little valleys with their own microclimates, special flora, shelter and that precious sense of seclusion. Here are four of the best on the walks here.

1 The Darent… but not as you know it

Tower Hill, Westerham viewed from the ‘secret‘ valley of the infant Darent stream

On the Hosey and Westerham walks I love the little south-north valley that winds its way from the sandstone ridge at Mariner’s Hill down to Westerham. It’s actually the valley of the River Darent just after it rises from a spring just behind the Greensand Ridge. I was delighted to realise this was where the Darent started, the stream is more associated with the chalk of the proper Darent Valley of Samuel Palmer fame – Shoreham, Otford and so on – not this obscure place near Chartwell.

Harebells
Harebells in the shadow of Tower Hill, Hosey walk

The river is bounded by beech and conifer (with Tower Hill a dark bump just to the east) and initially runs through a delightful meadow of wild grasses, unseen from the path. It suddenly broadens into large shallow pools as it heads to Westerham before turning east and making its way to its ‘proper’ valley. Autumn colours here are wonderful.

2 Magpie Bottom – great name, great valley

Magpie Bottom viewed from Austin Spring on the Fackenden walk

This stunning little rift in the landscape features on the Fackenden Down, Otford/Romney Street/Shoreham and the Eastern Valleys walk in different guises. It is so secluded that only walkers know of it. And the few residents of the curious hamlet I think called Upper Austin Lodge on the OS map.

Magpie Bottom is a classic steep-sided chalk dry valley (similar to but more dramatic than the ones on the Downe, Polhill and Cudham walks) running north to south from behind the escarpment. These are caused by glacial meltwater long departed. The valley’s head at Great Wood and Eastdown just behind the chalk escarpment of the North Downs to Rose Cottage farm is a series of wonderful spots unreachable by car, but really it’s gorgeous all the way down past Romney Street, Round Hill, Upper Austin Lodge and Eynsford where it meets the Darent Valley. Possibly my favourite place on all the walks, and all the better for no longer having a golf course in it!

3 A verdant vale on the way to Ightham Mote

Hidden valley behind Wilmots Hill, Ightam Mote
Broadhoath woods in the hidden valley behind Wilmots Hill, near Ightham Mote

My final Kent canyon (it’s not a canyon) features on the longer version of the Oldbury/Ightham Moat route and is mentioned as a route alternative on the One Tree Hill figure of eight walk (see the blue line on the Google map at the KWNL page). So on the One Tree Hill routes it’s a diversion, a short cut that you’ll have to check your maps to include. But on the longer Oldbury walk it’s part of the deal. What shall we call it? It’s round the back of Ightham Mote and passes through a wood called Broadhoath behind Wilmot Hill (which has some of the greatest views in Kent). It has a lively little stream that rises just behind the Greensand Ridge, a terrific pond with viewing platform and interesting flora as it descends west to east to Ightham Mote itself, passing a shed built to house early 20th century hop pickers (you’d think hop pickers were in fact horses judging by the design of the housing – the landowners obviously weren’t too bothered by other people’s comfort levels). Like the other little valleys it’s good for birds: marsh tit and bullfinch have been seen here. It’s another totally secret dip, accessible only to walkers, that’s like an entry to another realm; a world away, but its paths are only 55 minutes from Sydenham.